This page will be revolving around the life of my HPI Baja 5SC SS 1/5 scale gas powered model.

Some HPI Baja 5SC facts:




18.9kg (41 pounds)


Stock 65 km/h, tuned status right now around 95 km/h

Initial building time:

36 hours


Zeonah 31.8ccm 2-Stroke high performance 4-Bolt engine with 4.9 bhp.


1:25 mix fuel, can be stretched to 1:33 with good oil for better performance.

Parts, performance status & tuning:

– Stock open clutch bell & pinion gear replaced with the closed Turtle Racing V2 racing clutch due to issues with the pinion gear bolt diameter and breaking pinion screws.

– Stock brakes replaced with the OBAG half organic brake pad system, due to better breaking performance in tight situations

– Stock air filter removed and replaced with an K&N Dragster air filter system with paper filter for higher performance, lesser maintenance and better airflow.

– Stock muffler & exhaust replaced with the Samba “SamBaja” 3-chamber system, for more performance and less noise.

– Stock lower front chassis replaced with an after market part due to a defect after a frontal blow accident.

– Added Outerwears protection filter’s to the pull start casing and the flywheel intake of the engine to prevent damages caused by sucked in gravel and sand.

– Added a two way electronic fail safe / engine cut off switch, which can be operated remotely in case the throttle and brake servo fails or fully automatic if a signal loss occurs.

– Lower chassis screws replaced with hardened versions due to issues with continuously losing screws due to vibrations and the resulted movements of the soft metal stock screws.

– Outfitted the shocks with “Shock Socks” to keep them clear of sand or other abrasive material which would cause leaking dampers later.

– Complete engine replacement to the 2014 Zenoah G320RC 31.8cc 4-Bolt engine (what beats power? right, more POWER!)

– Full rear LED light kit with rear-, brake- and turn signals.

– Full self built 6 x 12 LED front light pods (trust me, they are BRIGHT)

– Replaced brake / throttle rod with the Team Twisted RC – Yamadude system

– Replaced the included tyres and rims with “MadMax Extreme” off road sets for better grip.



Buggy Conversion:

Due to the fact that my body shell started to show more and more wear & tear I decided to replace the whole shell into something more realistic.

I had to face the decision of buying a new body shell (which is with 285 € or 390 $ quite expensive) or converting it to something else. I choose the latter and went for the Kraken RC TSK1 roll cage, body plates, roof light-rack mount and front bumper.

The delivery arrived in waves due to worldwide out of stock items.

My first shipment consisted of the roll cage and body plates. I already came up with my preferred design while waiting for the shipment and went for a “sticker-bomb” base design + additional laser cutted foil design details.


Assembling the basic roll-cage frame was really a pain in the ass, as good as the Kraken RC parts look, as badly they are produced to fit (misplaced screw holes, only partly deflashed holes, assembled parts are under a lot of material pressure on certain places, body plates were partly warped and so on).

After putting together the basic frame I foil coated all my body plates with my final design idea:


At first I wondered why such an high priced product wasn’t even delivered with pre-drilled mounting holes to put the plates on the frame, later I found out why: the fitting is just horrible! what fit’s on one side doesn’t on the other and so forth. In addition the screws meant to be used didn’t even fit the screw holes, so I had to increase all drill hole sizes on the frame. When I finally managed to piece everything together I started to wonder:

Regarding to the Kraken homepage: “Direct fitment to Baja 5T and 5SC with no additional parts required.”

The front attachment did fit, the side attachments did fit as well but wait, the rear attachment was way out of place. Even the included plastic “L” parts meant to attach the rear didn’t fit at all. I was a bit puzzled and started looking at the included installation manual, the homepage and FAQ’s but couldn’t find any information why this just wouldn’t fit. Fortunately a friend of mine is a metal and manufacturing systems engineer, so we prepared two aluminium blocks and drilled our own screw holes to the blocks to attach the rear end properly.

In the meantime, the roof light bar got delivered and after piecing that together I ended up with:



The front bumper was still on backorder and the old bumper didn’t fit any more after changing the body mounts, so we had to again produce our own aluminium mounting parts (again no problem thanks to my friend in that business).

So what’s next? after a few test drives in the short days of January I noticed that I need lights on there, I knew that I would get them someday, but it really nagged me from “day one” after the first converted test-drive.

LED’s alone weren’t enough, nooo I needed something more advance to control and steer them, so I set my eyes on the “Killer RC Light Controller” now already in revision 3. Again I had to dip into my funds for this, which lead to me being avaricious this time and not wanting to pay for pre-build lights I went for the “DIY” led kits (oh my).

A few days later I snatched this from the postman:


Now it was the time again to get down to business (and avoid cursing as much as possible after seeing the suggested soldering plans).

12 LED’s per pod, to be soldered parallel and serial to avoid the use of resistors (worst case: 12 additional resistors per light pod!)

So here we go:


Up and down, round and round, repeat, that’s what soldering is all about:


After cursing, sobbing and crying I wound up with my final result:


Initially I had to build 7 LED pods, but I had an issue with the cabling, so I decided to only go with 4 on the roof and the 2 on the bumper for now.

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